On Monday, August 16, 1999 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Manadero wrote:
> Norman felt like saying:
> >I would like to find a stud for our toy poodle and do not know where
> >to start. She is regestered and will be going into her second heat
> >soon. Any information would be of help. Thank you.
> >Replay to me at <a
> It is *obvious* from your message that you are new to this "dog breeding
> thing", so I will offer some suggestions to help ensure that you produce
> healthy, happy puppies and owners.
> 1. You say that this is her second heat, is she two years old? A bitch is not
> considered fully mature until the age of two and should not be bred before that
> 2. What titles has she earned? Conformation, obedience, agility? Poodles
> excel in many arenas. Why title your dog? Because the people that buy your
> puppies deserve to have a dog that looks like a poodle and acts like a poodle.
> Titles show that your dog is competitive against other members of her breed and
> that she has been deemed to be of breeding quality by someone other than
> 3. Poodles have many health problems Dentition, Lux Patella, eye problems, etc.
> Have you obtained the necessary health certifications to show that she does
> not have these genetic defects? If not, you need to, all responsible breeders
> 4. How many homes do you have lined up for your puppies? Good breeders always
> have a waiting list. They also guarantee their dogs for life against genetic
> defects and consider themselves responsible for the dog throughout it’s
> lifetime. (i.e. what are you going to do in three years when they call and say
> they don’t want the dog any more?)
> 5. Do you have a large amount of disposable cash lying around? Once you add
> the costs of the genetic tests ($200.00), the stud fee for a good quality stud
> ($500.00++) a premium diet and vet prenatal care for your bitch ($250+) the
> docking of the tails and removal of the dewclaws ($25.00+ per puppy), not to
> mention age appropriate vaccines and worming ($30.00+ per puppy per visit) –
> You will need to have their 6 and 9 week old vaccines done before they go. You
> *do* know that toy breeds are not usually weaned and ready for new homes before
> 9-10 weeks, right? Oh and don’t forget there may also be a $600.00+ emergency
> C-section at 3 in the morning, your bitch may die in whelp or not be able to
> nurse, and then you will need to be on standby to nurse the litter yourself
> every 2 hours for weeks.
> This is just an overview of *some* of the responsibilities of a good breeder.
> Others include socialization, screening puppy buyers, clean-up and
> sterilization of the area at *least* three times a day and on and on.
> I would also like to mention that good breeders study their pedigrees and the
> pedigrees of potential studs for months, if not years ahead of schedule in
> order to pick the best possible match for their dog (reads – not the dog down
> the street with papers) They don’t say "Oh, she’s in season, I have 10 days
> (more or less) to find a stud"
> Now that you have done all that, let me mention that taking all of the above
> precautions can *not* guarantee a successful breeding. You may lose your
> bitch, you may lose your puppies, you might lose them all.
> In short, unless your bitch is such an exceptional representative of her breed
> that you feel that you are genuinely making improvements to the breed as a
> whole by breeding her…… then spay your pet and enjoy her. If you are
> looking for a companion for her, try Poodle rescue, they always have *plenty*
> of unwanted poodles bred by people just like yourself…….